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HOW TO RAISE A LARGE CROP 



OF 



STRAWBEREIES, 




TALLMADGE, SUMMIT CO., 0. 



AKI^OX. ().: 
CITY TIMES PRINTING HOUSE, 112 HO^VAR!p STREE' 

18iii».. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the Year 1869, by 

J. C. SNIDER, 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Northern District of Ohio, 



S^> 



J 



St^ 



CONTENTS 



PAOE. 

Preliminary 4- 

The Strawberry 5 

Selection of Situation 6 

Selection and Preparation of Soil for Garden 

Culture 6' 

PreparatioJi 7 

Sexes of Plants S 

Selection of Varieties 9 

Planting— When a.iul How 10 

Banners 11 

Watering p£ 

Garden Cultivation IS 

Kemoval of Beds IJ^ 

Cultivation in Hills 1^ 

Winter Protectioji lo 

Field Culture-' Id 

Transportation i^ 

Fine Ameri'Can Strawherries 19 

A Word for the Blackheii-y '^2 



PRELIMINARY. 



In giving to the public this treatise on the Strawberry, I am actu- 
ated by the belief, that a brief and cheap manual of this kind is much 
needed. And it is a cause of wonder that more persons, having much 
experience in raising this delicious fruit, and accustomed to writing for 
the public, have not before this made known their experience for the 
public good. Much is being said and done in, the general way, in 
Horticultural societies, by the discussions which are held ; as to mode 
of culture, varieties, and planting. But not enough stress is laid upon 
difference produced by diffei-ent soils. These opinions are to be weighed 
in the scale of experience; and where the result has been a large yield, 
and fine quality ; on a given space of ground ; so far as it exceeds 
other yields and qualities on the same sized bed, it deserves attention 
and a fair trial. But a mere idea or suggestion, without facts, amounts 
to nothing. 

What I write is from my own observation and experience. And if 
my observation has been cheap, my expei-ience has, at least in some 
instances, been very dear. These directions are not intended for those 
M'ho have had more experience than I have, and who know how to pro- 
ceed to raise a fine crop of berries ; but for beginners, (and there ar« 
many), and also for those who have spent time and money in their at- 
tempts and have failed, as I did for some time, all for the want ®f .such 
information as will be found in this work. A book of many pages 
might easily be written, quoting experience of different persons and 
giving extracts from various authors, but this is not my design ; it it 
to give plain and useful directions, that all can comprehend and act 
upon. No one will regret the price paid for this pamphlet, if they ar» 
helped, as I think they will be, by following the directions hereiM 
contained. 

[4] 



THE STRAWBERRY. 



In this, our beautiful country, God has given us man}^ rare and 
delicious small fruits ; and of all, none excels our Strawberry. It is 
«cattered from Maine to Florida in rich profusion. No soil refuses it a 
place. It adapts itself alike to the cold of the North and the heat of 
the South. We are attracted to it by its beauty, by its sweet perfume, 
and by its luscious taste. It seems to look up at us and say : " I am in 
a marred and suppressed state. I have within me hidden beauties. 
Take of my seed ; cultivate me ; give me adaptation of soil, and I will 
evolve latent capabilities such as I once possessed, when jjerfect and 
beautiful, I wafted on the morning breeze my incense offering to Him 
who spoke me into life." Best of all the berries, they come God's first 
Spring boon of fragrance-laden fruit to man. The rich and poor alike 
can have them, and in their season should be on the table in every 
family, every meal. In eating do not destroy their medicinal qualities 
with cream. Plucked fresh from the vines when fully ripe, and eaten 
with or without sugar, they are an invaluable alterative to the system. 
Thus eaten, they will remove tartar from the teeth, and help digestion. 
Good ripe Strawberries eaten as above recommended, for three or four 
weeks, will be of more benefit to many persons than mineral waters 
from any spring yet discovered. 

I think no person who has a plot of ground, and has once been suc- 
cessful in raising these berries, will be willing again to do without 
them, as their cost is so little in comparison with their value. 

[5] 



6 Cultwation of Strawberries. 



SELECTION OF A SITUATION. 

We will suppose that the reader is desiring to make a strawberry- 
bod, acd of course the first thing will be the location. Select, if possi- 
ble, a plot of ground gently sloping to the south and east. Have it 
well exposed to the sun and air. Plant near a north and west hedge or 
fence if possible, as this will afford winter protection. Avoid, as much 
as possible, planting near trees. Putting rows of berries between rows 
of young fruit trees is highly recommended by some gardeners, but is 
not a good practice. Either trees. or berries will suffer. The trees, as 
a. general thing, absorb too much of the electricity from the air, and 
there is not life enough left for the berries. If you desire to j)rolong 
your berry season, select a narrow strip of ground on the north side of 
an east and west fence. In such a location the berry will be eight or 
ten days later in ripening than the same berry on a southern slope. 



SELECTION AND PREPARATION OF SOIL 
FOR GARDEN CULTURE. 

The soil is a very important consideration in this matter. For 
Strawberries, like all other jjlants require a peculiar adaptation of soil 
for their development; some kinds succeeding well in soil that other 
varieties will not do well in. This fact will be evident to anj^ one who 
has ever raised vegetables or fruits. For instance : The potato requires 
a light, sandy soil. True, by much labor and manuring, you may 
raise a large crop of potatoes on clay soil, but they will be watery, and 
will bear no comparison to those raised in sand. The sweet potato can 
be raised on clay soil, but it scarcely deserves the name when cooked 
and placed beside those grown in sand. The water-melon raised on 
clay soil has none of that indescribable richness and sweetness of taste, 
that belongs to it, when produced in its native element, sand. So seed- 
lings that have been originated in clay soil, will do best in clay-, and 
vice versa. Take the wild Strawberry, with its melting sweetness and 
transplant into a highly cultivated garden, and it will produce little or 
no fruit, but hosts of runners. So the Peabody, which originated in 
Georgia, and considered a perpetual bearer, and good yielder there, 
will not produce well in a northern stimulated soil. In most gardens 
that have been well cultivated and manured within the last two years, 



Cultivation of Strawberries. 



the following berries will do well : Wilsori's Seedling, Jucunda, Great 
Agriculturist. 

In the article headed " Selection of varieties," you will notice more 
on the subject. 



PREPARATION. 



Whatever ground you prepare for a Strawberry bed, do it right, and 
attend to it well after it is prepared. If you have not time or means, 
or room to prepare a large bed right, be content with a small plot of 
ground, and you will have more berries from it, -well prepared and 
well kept, than from a large field carelessly prepared and poorly kept. 
8ome years since a neighbor, noticing my success with berries, said to 
me, " Why do you not enlarge your Strowberry beds ?" I told him I 
had not the ground prepared, and in turn asked him how much ground 
he had planthed. He told me he had set out one-half acre. But when 
the fruit season came around, I had more berries from each rod of 
ground than he had on his half acre. He got his plants frnm me, Wil- 
.son's Seedling, and had an equal chance with myself, in every respect. 
First of all in preparation, comes the di'ainage, and this will always 
pay. Do not think, because your ground is elevated or sloping, it does 
not require draining. I assure you, the drain will increase your jneld 
from thirty to a huudrvid fold. 

Two inch earthen tile drains, are the cheapest and best. Lay them 
two feet and a half deep and one rod apart. If you cannot obtain the 
tile, a drain made of brush or fine stone is better than nothing. Place 
the stone one foot deep and cover Avith #fe< ^ c f Before covering with earth. 
Such a drain will last a long time. The best time for j)loughing or 
spading the ground is in Autumn. Before ploughing, procure some 
old, well-rotted manure. Add to each cart load of this manure, one 
]ieck of unleached ashes, one-half peck of lime, (slack before you put 
on.) and one-half gallon salt. Apply a cart load of manure thus pre- 
])ared to each square rod of ground. This preparation is for vines that 
will bear stimulating, such as Wilson, &c. Then plough or spado deep, 
and the above fertilizers will be turned under to supply life and vigor 
to the deej) reaching roots. Before ploughing in Spring, add one half 
each of the Fall application of lime, salt and ashes, then spade and rake 
until the ground is finely pulverized. If you can procure hen manure, 
apply one-half bushel to each rod of ground — after spading and before 
raking the ground— just before planting. If you cannot prepare the 
ground in the Fall, do it in the Spring. But the Fall is a much better time. 



8 Cultivation of Strawberries. 



If you cannot pi'ocure the well rotted manure, leaf-mold, if at hand is 
a verr good substitute. Do not apply fresh manures. If your ground 
is a stiff clay, add sand ; or if pure sand, add clay. 



SEXES OF PLANTS. 



The vexed question of sexes, in plants is still on the tapis. The 
Strawberry comes in for its share of the dispute, and for the want of 
knowledge on this subject, much time and labor has been lost ; and 
here, a rich exi^erience of my own comes in. Some years ago, with the 
help of a gardner and much hard labor on my own part, I succeeded in 
laying out and planting a beautiful Strawberry bed. When in bloB- 
.som, it was the wonder of all beholders, and my neighbors predicted 
several bushels at least, of fine fruit. With what joy I looked upon its 
snowy bloom ! the large, glossy leaves nearly hidden with the white 
profussion. But when the time to gather berries came — alas for the 
berries ! I had the whole amount of three quarts ! I attributed my 
failure to the fact that the plants were too near together, and I then 
I'emoved about half of them. The next year they bloomed out again 
grandly, and I had again three quarts of berries ! And the result wae- 
my berries cost me about five dollars a quart. All this loss of time, la- 
bor and money, was owing to my ignorance of the difference between 
male and female flower, which you now know. There are three kindft 
of plants : Pistillate, Staminate and Hermaphrodite. 




EXPLANATION OF CUT. 

Letter A. — Hermaphrodite, or pefect flower, having stamens and pistils (male and 
female) on same. S. — Staminate. P. — Pistillate. 
Letter B. — A staminate or male flower. 
Letter C. — A pistillate or female flower. 

Supposing you set out a bed of Hovey's seedlings. These being 
pistillate plants require a staminate. Burr's New Pine for instance, near 
them. Set out seven or eight rows of Hovey then one row of Pine.— 



Cultivation of Strawberries, 9 



On the other hand, the Wilson being a hermaphrodite, contains both 
stamens and pistils in one plant, and needs no staminate or pistillate 
near it. 

The hermaphrodites are coming into very general use, and will soon 
supercede all the old kinds, being much less trouble. Before procur- 
ing any plants, besure you undersand whether they are Staminate, Pis- 
tilate or Hermophrodite. And also be sure to obtain young plants. — 
Old ones are not worth the trouble of setting out. 



SELECTION OF VARIETIES. 



On selecting plants, no very specific directions can be given to each 
one, for all must be guided by their soil. For, as has been stated, 
plants that will succeed well in one locality and soil, may not do well 
in a ditfereut soil. Eor instance, I will name two kinds that arc well 
known, Willson's Seedling and Ilovey's seedling. The "Wilson Seed- 
ling is a vigorous grower, and will j^roduce largely in sand soil. But 
the berries will be small, more acid, of a dull, dark red, with seeds 
protruding out, so that you can feel them with the hand. While the 
same berry on a rich, clay loam, produced for rac, on a bed forty-sev- 
en by forty feet, eighteen bushels and nine quarts of fine flavored berries. 
Many of these berries measured from three and a half to four and a half 
inches, some five inches in circumference, and very few small ones. 

The Hovey Seedling, on the same ground the same year, would 
have given me but few berries, and an innumerable host of runners. 
Therefore, for a rich clay loam, they have yet to find the berry that 
will compare with the Wilson for quantity and quality. It has been 
denounced by some garderners and amateurs, as being too acid. This 
is owing to the fact that it was not raised in congenial soil, or was not 
ripe. Where the soil is adajDted to it, and it is fully ripe, it has just 
acid enough to make it pleasant. 

As an evidence of the general satisfaction this berry gives, 1 had 
growing in the same garden the same year, with the same care. Long- 
worth's Prolific, Hovcy's Seedling, Hooker's Seedling, Earlv Scarlet, 
Hout Boy, Burrs New Pine, Alice Maud, Peabod^-'s Seedling, kc.. Yet 
when our customers came for berries, eight out often would say 'give 
me the Wilson." They are especially desirable for canning, as they 
retain so well their flavor and form. Ever^- person cultivating fur their 
own use, would do well to obtain a few jilants of several different kinds 
and try for themselves. From my experience I would rccommcud the 
following : 



10 Cultivation of Strawberries. 



For sand soil, Early May, Burr's New Pine, Hovey's Seedling, 
(jreat Wisconsin, Lady of the Lake, Triomphe de Grand. 

For cla}^ soil, Wilson's Seedling, French's Seedling, G-reat Agricul- 
turist, (late) Eussell's Prolific, Lennig's White, Jucunda. 

The Jucunda was imported from Belgium, by B. M. Watson, old 
Colony Xurseries, of Plymouth Mass. It is recommended as one of 
the choicest berries. I am not personally acquainted with Mr. Watson, 
but have made small purchases from him, at different times, of shrubs 
and plants, and always to my satistaction. The plants have come done 
up in gutta percha silk, all in good order — every one grew. You can 
rely upon receiving genuine plants from him. 

By sending to him, you can obtain free, a full catalogue of choice 
seeds and plants. He recommends for general cultivation, the follow- 
ing fine new varieties : 

Jucunda, Lady of the Lake, New Jersey Scarlet, Early May, Elver's 
Eliza, French's Seedling, Chas. Downing. 

Ho says of the Chas. Downing, " Twenty-eight berries gathered in 
June, from a bed set last Autumn, weighed one pound." Again I 
would say, try different kinds, until you find what succeeds best in your 
o-arden. 



PLANTING— WHEN AND HOW. 



Spring is decidedly the time to set out Strawberry plants. Fall 
planting is highly recommended by some fruit growers, especially the 
month of August, but I could never see any reason why. For in this 
climate, we often have a long and dry season through August and Sep- 
tember ; and Strawberries can not live without plenty of water. And 
if they are not well rooted beforethe cold weather comes on, they will 
not sttind our winters. Planted in Spring, they will be sure to catch 
the rain during some of the early summer months. And although you 
cannot expect or have much of a crop (see cultivation) the first sum- 
mer, tlie plants will have attained such a groath and strength by the 
next, as to fully repay the waiting. 

I strongly recoommend Spring planting. Before setting out the 
plants, procure some old, well-rotted sawdust. Be sure and get the old 
sawdust. It will pay to haul it five or ten miles. If it cannot possibly 
be obtained ; the next best thing is old, fine tan-bark. Leaf mold is 
also good. After the ground has been spaded and raked over in the 
Spring, let it settle a few days before setting out the plants. If the 
ground is low and has not been drained, elevate the bed slightly, about 



Cultivation of Strawberries. 11 



three inches. Keep the ground in the bed level. With a spade dig 
holes in rows, two feet apart, ten inches deep and fifteen 
inches apart in the rows. Then take the plants in a shallow basket 
or pan, and in another old pan or coal-bucket, as much sawdust as 
jou can conveniently carry with j'ou. Put in the bottom of each hole 
a trowel ful of the old sawdust. If dry, pour in a pint or so of water. 
If the roots are matted together and dry, dip them in water. You will 
find this especially beneficial, when the plants have been received 
from a distance. 

Hold the crown of the plant between the first finger and thumb 
of left hand, dividing the roots between the other three fingers, and be 
particular to set the plants in the ground, with the crown just even 
with the surrounding earth. Then, with the trowel in the right hand 
draw some dirt over the sawdust and around the roots, until within 
three inches of the level ground. Then put in again a little saw dust, 
and finally fill to the level with dirt. Put no saw dust on top of the 
ground, near the plant. Then drop your trowel and with both hands 
l)ress the earth inward, towards the crown, until the earth is compact, 
and then press all gently down. Start with the crown well down as it 
is much easier to elevate itslightly, when partly filled in, than tocrowd 
down. 

Gardens are sometimes infested with ground moles, that plough 
through Strawberry beds and disturb the roots. I noticed that no 
moles ever worked in my onion bed, so I took up the idea that onions 
would keep them from Strawberry beds. I tried it, and the moles took 
their departure. Cut the onion and place half in each opening, when 
3"0u set a plant. Place the half onion two inches from the plant and 
two inches from the surface — turn the growing side down. Many per- 
sons have in the spring onions that have sprouted — unfit for the table. 
If you have such on had, place one between each plant in the rows 
three inches underground, root side up. The amonia of the onion will 
drive the mole away and increase the yield of fruit. 

Now you have a bed, after my plan, for producing the greatest 
yield of good fruit on a small piece of ground. 



RUNNERS. 



The Strawberry has two ways to produce its like— by seeds and by 
runners. Ifthesoilis right, the first effort will be to set tlie fruit ; 
Next to. perpetuate its like by runners./ > 

The first runners you will notice, be spindling, not much thicker 



12 Ctiltivdtion of Strawberries . 



than a large knitting needle. Eemove all such runners, and in order 
not to injure the plant, take hold of it with one hand and with the 
other jerk the runner downward ; separating it as near the plant ae 
possible. Keep off all the runners that make their appearance after 
the fruit season, for three or four weeks, until the plants send out vig- 
orous runnel's, three or four times the size of the first set. Let these 
strong runners>cover if possible every part of the bed. If the season 
be dry, runners will not readily take hold of the soil, and will need a 
little of your assistance. Where they throw out the first leaves, after 
leaving the parent stalk, hollow out a little place, like bowl of a spoon, 
set the little fibrous roots in it, draw some earth over them, and hold 
the runner in its place by a small stone or weight of any kind, not to 
exceed the size of half an egg, placed close to the runner, on the side 
towards the mother plant. A twofold object is gained by allowing 
these vigerous runners to thus cover the bed. First, they afford in a 
.great degree their own winter j^rotection. Secondly, they serve du- 
ring the fruiting season as a shield to the ground, retaining the moist- 
ure and proteccting the fruit from the fierce rays of the sun. I am 
aware they need air and light; thus treated they will have an abund- 
ance. In gathering berries, you will always find that the choicest onet 
are those that have been slightly shaded. 

- Again I say, attend to the recommendations about the runners. I 
attribute, in a great degree, my success in the large yield (advertised 
in the New York Tribune) to having strictly attended to this matter. 

See article on blackberry and also cultivation in hills, about re- 
moving all the fruit stalks from every plant, unless j^ou want one or 
two to show the size and quality oYany new kind you may plant. 



WATERING. 



Strawberry plants jnu^Hiave water. They delight in it, and if the 
land is well (?m/yie(Z, can scarcely have too much of it. I do not mean 
to have them standing in stagnant water. They will not like that any 
better than corn would. But if convenient, have the beds n-ear running 
water, so that in a dry season it can be thrown upon them abundantly- 
Sundown is the best time for watering, but they will like two drinks a 
day; morning and night. Our best crops have always been gathered 
when we have had wet Aveather through May and June. If there 
comes a dry time through the fruiting season, and you desire a good 
crop of berries, water thoroughly and often, early and late. Grive 



Cultivation of 8trawl>erries. IS 



them a bucketful to every three or four feet. They will ahow you how 
well they like it. They w.illreturnj thanks by giving you nice berries 
and plenty of them. 



GARDEN CULTIVATION. 



If the ground has been well prepared, and the plants set iii it ac-- 
cording to direction, the hardest labor is done, unless we except gath-. 
ering the berries. 

Many people spoil their beds by too much cultivation. After pre- 
paring the ground careles.sly and throwing in the plants, in a slovenly 
way, they commence a vigorous hoeing, which, is certain death to the 
noimerous fibrous roots, which interlace and fill the ground around 
the plant. A hoe should never be used, near a Strawberry plant. — 
A gentleman living near me, who always has a good garden, com- 
plains to me that, although he succeded with every thing else, he 
could not raise Strawberries. As he is avery thorough gardner I in- 
quired, " Do you hoe your beds ?" "Oh, yes, I hoe them thoroughly 
and often," ho replied. Here was his mistake. 

Weeds wnll grow in strawberry beds, as well as everywhere else; 
and of course must come out. Those immediately around the plant 
must be pulled out by hand. Those between the rows can be extermi- 
nated by a careful use of the hoe. Do not let your hoe come within 
six inches of the plant, and be careful not to ridge up the ground, but 
keep perfectly level. You will need, to go over the ground in ti»is way 
two or three times. But after the runners are well set, la}' aside your 
hoc, and never lot one be used again in the patch, as long as it is used 
for a strawberry bed. Great care should be used in gathering fruit not 
to trample down the ground close around the plant. If alter thus care- 
fully removing all weeds and grass, an occasional weed nuikes its ap- 
pearance, it must be removed by hand. Later in the season your bed 
will require a slight covering of clean straw or dried leaves which will 
be more particularly spoken of under " Winter protection." If your 
soil is a clay loam — nots:ind soil — some time during the month of May, 
or before the fruiting season, when the leaves are dry. Apply for ev- 
ery rod of ground about one quart of ccmmon salt — sow it broadcast 
over the bed. Also just before the fruiting season — when the ground 
is wet — tipply to each rod of ground one peck of hen manHire,di6solved 
in a half bbl. of waiter, just before the dew falls. 



IJj, Cultivation of Strawberries, 

^REMOVALS OF BEDS. 



It is better to take strong healthy runners, and make new beds once 
in three or four years, than to try to keep up the old and you will havo 
better fruit with less trouble; as it requires some ^kill, and much work 
to keep down the runners in an old bed. The field cultivator has only 
to let the runners set between the old rows; turn the old rows under 
with his cultivator, thin out the now rows, and the work is done. 



CULTIVATING IN HILLS. 



if you wish to try this mode of culture ; set the plants twenty inch- 
es apart each way. Prepare the ground as directed, and after having 
destroyod the first and second crops of weeds, carefully with the hoe 
pulling all weeds near the plant with the hand, cover the sjiaces be- 
tween the plants, two inches deej) with straw. Place the straw only 
half an inch deep, immediately around the plant. If no straw can be 
got, use well rotted tan bai'k, for surface covering. It some times caus- 
es mildew, if over ^ inch in dei)th immediately around the 23lants and 
it wnll cause many roots to run near the surfoce, that can neither stand 
the drought of Autumn, or the frosts of Winter. Plants set in the 
spring, will always if the season be favorable produce more or less ber- 
ries. After the fruit is set and the first berry turns red, remove every 
fruit stalk. It will seem hard, and like a waste, to throw away that, 
which in a few days would afford a dainty meal. But, I think for every 
quart thus sacrificed, you will gain ten quarts the next season; if it 
prove a propitious one for berries. You ask, why not remove the fruit 
stalks, ae soon as the}^ make their appearance. One reason is, a second 
effort will be made to produce fruit, which will exhaust the plant. — 
Kext there will be an eft'ort to send out runners, which will also ex- 
haust the plant. These must all be removed as soon as two- or three 
inches long. Soon the plant thus treated will commence stooling out, 
until a single plant, will have the appearance of a dozen pressed to- 
gether. I had a bed of Wilson's Seedling after the above plan set out 
in the Spring of 1862 ; only I had the plants thirty inches 
apart. The plants treated as above directed stooled, out, until each 
single plant, in the month of June 1863, covered a space larger 
than the head of a flour barreh The leaves of the plants touched 
each other in the rows. Every plant on the bed, was loaded 



Cultivation of Strawberries. 15 



with hundreds of berries. There were counted on one single plant,three 
hundred and eighty four perfect berries. Many other plants in the 
same row were nearly as full. Many of the berries were of a large 
size, but not on an average as large as those raised on the beds, as pre- 
viously described. 

Let not the reader think that hill culture implies any elevation of 
earth around the plant. If the ground is flat let the bed be elevated 
about three inches, but always keep the ground level between the 
plants. A small bed thus treated will for the sight of it alone, inde- 
pendent of the berries, pay for the labour. But I do not recommend 
this mode of culture. The berries thus raised are more affected by 
drought. They will prematurely turn the color of ripeness. They 
will not have the same rich color and delicious flavor. And they will 
not on an average be of as good size, as the same berries, raised in the 
same garden, the same season ; treated as first directed. 



WINTER PROTECTION. 



My berries had no winter protection the season referred to, when 
I had the unprecedented yield of Wilson Seedlings, save that afforded 
by a fence on the north and west, about fifteen feet distant from 
the beds. In most localities, you will find it a great advantage to give 
the beds in your garden winter protection 5 and it is especially recom- 
mended for the open field culture. If you neglect it, you may find half 
of your thrifty plants lying on top of the ground, in the spring. To 
protect them well, first procure an ample amount of small brush, and 
scatter them all over the bed, laying the tip ends, instead ol' tlio but 
ends of the brush on the plants. Then cover the beds all over with 
straw, two inches thick; taking care that each plant have a slight cov- 
ering over it. Then cross-wise of the bed, place a few long light brush, 
to keep the wind from carrying away the straw. Be careful not to 
remove the covering too early in the spring. Persons having beds thuK 
protected, on the appearance of the first warm days in March or April, 
remove all the covering at once. The plants having thus been protect- 
ed, are tender and cannot stand the chilly winds that follow, nor the 
bright sun light. When the weather becomes warm and settled, then 
remove the covering by degrees. Leave part of the straw where there 
are open spaces, and also under the leaves around each plant, first tak- 
ing out with the hand, all weeds. The straw thus left, will keep the 
earth moist, around the plant; and keep the fruit from being splashed- 
and soiled during hard rains. 



16 Cultivation of Strawhej^ries. 



FIELD CULTURE. 

You must proceed in selection of location, same as for garden ciilture 
as far as practicable. Draining here is essential, as in the garden. — 
Never select ground in which the grass has not been subdued, by at 
least t\vo years tillage with other crops. If you. Ixave a piece of ground 
that has been in corn or potatoes the tw^o preceeci.ng yeai-s, select such 
n lot for your straw-berries. You will then have but little trouble to 
keep down the weeds. If the ground is rich enough to bring a good, 
crop of corn., it will wnthout any additional manuring produce a good, 
crop ofstrawberri.es. If the soil is not in a high state of cultivation, 
apply from ten to, fifteen wagon loads of well rotted manure, fifteen, 
bushels of ashes, fi.fteen bushel of slacked lime, and three bushels of salt 
to. each acre of ground. If muck soil is convenient it will be a good, 
substitute for the manure; ajxd a much better one still if it can bo had, 
you will find in leaf mold. Let the reader remember that the above 
mode is submitted for those strawberries, and those alone, as will bear 
and seem to require much stimulation. If you have ground lately 
cleared, that has been tilled, you will find in such soil, most if not all 
the prerequisites to banng a large yield of strawberries. Such groun.d. 
will not require any of the fertilizers above named ; but the lime, and 
not that, if the substrata rocks of the field are limestone. If your land 
i;s. a clay loam., and does not aboun.d in small sandstone, you will im-. 
prove it very much, to scatter over each acre, fifteen to twenty wagoa 
loads of river or creek sand. It will prove ultimatel}' of more benefit 
to such land, for producing most an}' crop, than five times that number 
of loads of manure. On the other hand, if your soil is silica, or in, otlier 
words wiiat is termed strictly a sand soil, you. can improve it vastly, 
^Y applying tw^enty or thirty wagon loads of clay to tlie acre. Put it 
on late in the fall, and the frosts will pulverize it,and then in the spring 
before ploughing ; add to such soil, ten bushels of lime, ten bushel 
ashes to the acre. Your ground will then bring you a good crop of ber-. 
ries, and when done with berries, will be in good condition for other 
crops. After having the ground ploughed deep, (and do not plougli 
until in a good condition to plough} let it thoroughly dry, so that tiid 
earth will almost pulverize at the touch of the hand. If the weather 
is settled and clear; let the ground remain one or two days after plough- 
ing, V)eforc harrowMnff. Then mark it out with a corn marker — th« 
rows four feet apart. Place in the centre of the marker, a small peg. 
that will leave a mark, where the middle row of berries arc to be set. 
Having the ground thus marked, set the plants in t A w w e lows, between 
the spK-.e of the four feet. The middle row will be two feet distant 



CitUivation of Strawberries, 17 



from the four foot muvks, one foot each, leaving a space of two feet, be- 
tween the rows of plants. Set the plants one foot apart in the rows. — 
You will then have a space of two feet between the rows, through 
which you can pass with a one horse cultivator, to keep down all the 
weeds. Keep all the ground as level as possible. Let the ground be 
well settled before planting; and plant in the spring, even if late. It 
is better than fiiU planting. You may if you have strawberry beds close 
by, of the kind you wish to plant, transplant the vines at almost any 
time of the year, b}^ using great care ; taking up with a garden trowel, 
some of the soil, with the plant and drenching with abundance of water. 
Taken up in this way, the plant will grow, unless it be the fruiting 
season, but early spring planting is the best; for reasons previously 
given. In our latitude, forty-one and a iialf, we set out plants in April, 
and on to May 25th. In your field, as in garden culture you must 
use the hoe very carefully. Do not disturb the earth, close around 
the plant. All weeds near the plant, must be removed by hand, and as 
directed in garden culture, remove all fruit stalks that make their ap- 
pearance the first 3'ear ; but not until the berries are formed. Then in 
a short time the runners will make their appearance. Remove every 
one, as heretofore directed, untill the plant can, and voill send out vig- 
orous runners, and not exhaust itself. When the stout large runners 
make their api^earancc, prepare for them, the two feet of vacant ground, 
making it as clean and level as possible. When some of the large 
runners, reach out upon the vacant ground, lay them close to the out- 
er row, that you do not injure them. When going over the space for 
the last time, any that have commenced to throw out little fibrous roots, 
you can help as recommended in garden culture. If your ground is 
right, these vigorous runners will cover nearly every vacant spot. And 
in one year from setting out, if the season is a good one for berries, you 
will have such a yield, as no other mode of culture ever has, or can 
produce, on the same sized lot of ground. In the second season, let 
the three original rows of plants, set the fruit, but not send out any 
runners. Remove every one; and also the first weak runners, that 
come out from the runners, which were set the year before. The third 
year, turn under the original or first rows that you set out, with j^our 
cultivator. They will enrich the ground faster and better, than turned 
down, clover will for the wheat field. When turned down the third 
year, apply some good fertilizer. 

TRANSPORTATION. 

A few years ago a great trouble, with the grower of small fruits, was 
the shipping. After he had secured a fine crop, unless being near the 



18 CvLltivation of Strawberries. 



city, ho was at a loss how to dispose of it. But at the present day, 
with all our network of railroads ; and our factories throughout the 
country for making convenient little fruit baskets and boxes, on pur- 
pose for small berries ; it is considered no great feat to ship berries four 
or five hundred miles, in a good condition. 

Information concerning these baskets and boxes, best kinds, and 
where obtained, can be had by addressing Secretary of Farmers' Club, 
New York Tribune. I do not wish to recommend any particular kind 
as improvements are constantly being made. 

Some kinds of berries bear transportation much better than others, 
and great regard should be paid to this, by those field cultivators who 
live at a distance from the market. The following berries bear trans- 
portation well : 

"Wilson's seedling, Jucunda, Triomphe De Grand, New Jersey Scar- 
let and French's Seedling. Other varieties will bear transportation 
well. For further description of varieties of berries, see page and 
prices. I quote from catalogue of B. M. "Watson, Old Colony Nurser- 
ies, Plymouth, Mass., from whom you can order. I have no plants to 
sell at present. 



PINE AMERICAK STRAWBERRIES. 



Bt mall, prepaid, at the dozen price. Hundreds prepaid by mail for 25 cts, per 100, 
additional. 

Plants should be set in September and October; and for spring planting, in April 
and May. Those set in October give a fine crop in the spring ensuing. 

Strawberry plants for the mail are packed in gutta-percha silk, and may be sent in 
perfect safety any distance. 

The following are selected from upwards of a hundred and fifty sorts which have 
been tested in this Nursery, and are confidently ofiered as the best now in cultivation.— 
They have taken all the principal prizes at the great strawberry showB this season.— 
Several new kinds are now offered for the first time. 



NEW STRAWBERRIES. 



ABRAHAM LINCOLN.— A new seedling grown in Pennsylvania, of very large eiec ; 
productive and of excellent quality. 25 cts. each ; $2 per doe. 

CHARLES DOWNING.— This fine fruit was obtained from Downer's Prolific, by Mr. 
J. S. Downer of Kentucky. It is a rich scarlet, of the largest size, very firm and 
solid, and of a rich and peculiar flavor. The plant is of extraordinary vigor and 
productiveness. The flowers are perfect. 28 berries gathered in June, from a bed 
set last autumn, weighed one pound. This is no doubt one of the best fruits ever 
introduced. By a special arrangement with Mr. Carpenter, who owns the stock and 
is sending it out this season /or the first time, I am'able to off'er this splendid straw- 
berry to my customers at his prices via.: 3 plants, $2 ; 6 plants, $3 ; 12 plants, $5 ; 
100 plants, $25. 

DURAND'S SEEDLING.— A new early fruit, remains long in bearing; uniformly large; 
very solid ; of excellent flavor, and high perfume. Extra. $2 per doz. 

GREAT AGRICULTURALIST.— This splendid fruit is one of the finest ever grown in 
this country. Its great size and beauty and heavy yield will make it a universal 
favorite. The fruit is uniformly large and handsome. This strawberry is the latest 
fruiting variety ever grown, adding a week or ten days to the strawberry season. — • 
This makes it a market sort of the very first importance. It was in bearing here 
this season at Isast ten days after all other kinds were done. 50 cts. per doz.; $2 per 
100; $15 per 1,000. 

GREAT RIPAWA. — A new and very large fruit of great beauty ; origininated in Con- 
necticut. It took the first premium at the American Institute, New York, being the 
largest and heaviest berry ever shown. This promiaes to be one of the leading 
sorts. $1 per doz.; $5 per 100. 



20 American Strawberries. 



HAERISON. — A new fruit from near New York, resembling Hovey's Seedling in size 
nnd quality ; very productive, and firm. 20 cts. each ; %2 per doz. 

JUCUNDA, or KNOX'S 700. — I imported this fruit from Belgium some years ago, and 
it turns out to be one of the most remarkable strawberries in cultivation. For bril- 
liant color, perfect form, extreme beauty, enormous productiveness, large and uni- 
form size, and protracted fruitage, it excels all strawberries now grown. $1 per doz.; 
$6 per 100. 

LADY OF THE LAKE. — A new strawberry originated by Scott Brothers, and sent out 
for the first time last season. This is a fruit of the first class, and I confidently 
recommend it for private gardens and for the market. 

The berry is very large, rich scarlet, of regular shape, firm, and easily gathered, of a 
high aromatic flavor. A fruit of the highest excellence. 75 cts. per doz.; $4 per 100. 

METCALF. — A new and very productive sort, of great beauty ; fruit very solid, of a 
bright scarlet color : plant hardy and vigorous. $2 per doz. 

NEW JERSEY SCARLET. — This is the earliest of the new strawberries, and with the 
exception of Early May, the earliest known. The fruit is large, bright scarlet, very 
sweet and firm. It is a fine grower, and I can recommend it after thwough trial as 
fruit of the best quality. From its extreme earliness, it is a very desirable sort 
for market gardeners. 50 cts. per doz.; $2.50 per 100. 

PERPETUAL PINE (GLOEDE). — This new I'ereign pine is received from Mr. Gloede of 
Belgium, who thus describes it: — 

" The kind I have the good luck to offer is a real, perpetual, large-fruited strawberry, of 
the pine class, which, during three years' culture, not only bore an abundant crop 
in spring, but continued flowering and fruiting till late in the autumn." 

Plants $1 each ; 6 for $3 ; 12 for $5. 

PHILADELPHIA, — For an early variety this is no doubt one of the best. The fruit ia 
large and firm, of a conical form, rich scarlet ; a most abundant bearer of unsurpass- 
ed flavor. It has receired the first premium of the Pennsylvania Horticultural 
Society. $1 per doz.; $6 per 100. 

PRESIDENT. — A new and superb fruit, of large size ; very beautiful, and of delicious 
flavor. Extra. 25 cts. each ; $2 per doz. 

ROMEYN. — This new seedling, as firm and productive as the Wilson, continues to fruit 
very late. A very showy and attractive berry. $1 per doz. 

STARR. — New, very productive; of a peculiar and agreeable aroma; a splendid fruit. 
25 cts. each; $2 per doz. 

STINGER.— A very large solid fruit ; of great beauty. Its enormous size will make it 
one of the leading sorts either for the market or garden. $2 per doz. 



TUE BEST STANDARD STRAWBERRIES. 

BIJOU DES FRAISES.— The best of the Hautbois varieties, and combining all the 
peculiar merits of the Alpine, Wood and Hautbois tribe. Its peculiar musky aroma, 
and delicious flavor, will commend it to all admirers of this unique class of straw- 
berries. In consequence of its superiority in size and quality over all other varieties, 
I have discontinued in its favor the cultivation of the other sorts offered in former 
-Catalogues. 50 cts. per doz.; $2 per 100. 

BONTE DE ST. JULIEN.— A foreign Pine of great productiveness, very sweet and 
delicious. An excellent sort. 50 cts per doz.; $3 per 100. 

BOSTON PINE or BARTLETT (HOVEY).— A large, hardy, and productive sort, of 
most excellent quality. It is a very rich and sweet fruit, and among the earliest 
ripe. The berries are firm and easily gathered, — a first class fruit for the family use 
or the market. Extra. 25 cts. per doz.; $1.50 per 100. 



American Strawberries. 21 



BRIGHTON PINE (SCOTT).— This, and the foregoing are remarkable for their rich, 
sweet, and highly flavored fruit, which makes them particularly desirable for family 
gardens. lu quality they resemble the English and Belgium Pines. Extra. 25 
cts. per doz,; %\.bi> per 100« 
BUFFALO SEEDLING, or GREAT BUFFALO (SMITH). P.— This new sort is 
thought to be more productive than Wilson's Albany, and several experienced 
growers have given testimonials to the effect that it is superior to any other sort 
now in cultivation. Fruit large; color dark crimson ; flesh solid, with a sweet aro- 
matic flavor, 50 cis. per dog.; $2 per 100 ; $15 per 1000. 
BYBERRY SEEDLING. — An e.\;cellent grower ; berry large, dark scarlet. A new sort 

highly recommended. 50 cts. per doz. 
CUTTER or BUNCE. — An excellant strawberry, of the best quality, very productive, 
nnd remains in bearing a long time. The fruit is large, handsome and easily gath- 
ered ; a first-rate fruit for the garden or market. Extra. 25 eta. per doz.; $1.50 per 
100. 
DOWNER'S PROLIFIC or DOWNER.— This has proved a first class market berry, 
ripening with the earliest, and holding out very late. The fruit is large and hand- 
some, of excellent flavor and very productive. The plant is very hardy. I would 
recommend this excellent sort to all planters, whether for the market or private use. 
Extra. 25 cts. per doz.; $1.50 per 100. 
EARLY MAY. — E.vtra large and productive. A beautiful, high-flavored fruit, which 
should be in every garden, on account of its extreme earliness and productiveness. 
Extra. 25 cts. per doz.; $1.50 per 100. 
ELIZA (RIVERS). — A most delicious fruit, which I received some years since from Mr. 
Rivers of England, the famous nurseryman who originated it. It is by far the best 
and most productive Pine in cultivation, and is unsurpassed in quality by any straw- 
berry la acquainted with. The fruit is very large, dark crimson, very juicy, sweet 
and rich, sprightly and perfumed. The plant is hardy, vigorous and prolific. I 
I would recommend it to all planters in preference to any other Pine. Extra. 50 
cts. per doz.; $3 per 100. 
FRENCH'S SEEDLING. — This new and excellent variety has fully maintained its char- 
acter for earliness, large size, and productiveness. It may be relied on as one of 
the earliest and very best sorts for the market or private garden. New. Extra. 50 
cents per doz., $2 per 100; $15 per 1,000. 
GOLDEN QUEEN. — A beautiful berry from Western New York. A most productive 

and valuable fruit. $1 per doz. 
GREAT WISCONSIN, OR WISCONSIN PERPETUAL.— This new variety originated 
in Watertown (Wis.), and is remarkable for its high flavor and heavy yield. It 
remains a long time in fruit, under favorable circumstances. The flowers are per- 
fect andfruit stems erect. The plant is very vigorous and hardy. New. $1 per 
doz. 
GREAT PROLIFIC. P. (BOYDEN)— This is on« of the parents of the "Agriculturist." 
The plant is very hardy and vigorous; the fruit large, uniform, orange scarlet, high- 
flavored, solid, parts easily from the stem; fruit stems erect; and is most product- 
ive. New; 50 cts. per doz. — $2 j>er 100. 
HOVEY'S SEEDLING. P. — This old and well-known sort is a great favorite in many 
parts of the country. It must be planted in the neighberhood of the Boston or 
Brighton Pine to produce full crops, as its flowers are imperfect. 25 cents per doz.; 
$150 per 100. 
II>A.— Strong, hardy, and rapid grower. Fruit large, bright scarlet, and of excellent 
flavor. Exceedingly productive, and promises to be one of the very best sorts lor 
the market. 50 cents per doz., $250 per 100. 
JENNY LIND.— One of the earliest and most delicious sorts known. The fruit is con- 
ical, very sweet, very early, and remains a long time in perfection. It should be in 
every garden. Extra. 25 cents per doz., $150 per 100. 



22 American Strawberries. 



LA CONSTANT (DE JONGHE).— This is a first class Pine, of beautiful shape (a regular 
cone), very large, bright crimson. The flesh is rosy, sweet, and of exquisit flavor. 
The plant is very vigorous and productive. New. Extra. 50 cts per doz., ^3 per 
100. 

LEED'S PROLIFIC— This new and fine variety resembles the Early Scarlet, but is 
much larger, and a very early and productive sort, bearing at the rate of 200 bush- 
els per acre. It has been fully tested in New Jersey, where it originated, and 
proves to be one of the best and most profitable sorts in cultivation. New. 50 cts 
per doz., $2 per 100. 

LENNIG'S WHITE, OR WHITE PINE APPLE.— Very large, round, white with pink 
tinge, buttery, high-flavored, excellent. 75 cts per doz., $3 per 100 

RUSSEL'S GREAT PROLIFIC. P.— This is ap extremely large and wonderfully pro- 
ductive fruit, of fine appearance, and of a peculiar and very agreeable aromatic fla- 
vor. This splendid strawberry attracts much attention, and is a great acquisition. 
New. Extra. 50 cts per doz., $2 per 100; $15 per 1,000. 

TRIOMPH DE GAND. — A celebrated Belgian fruit which has become very popular in 
this country. The fruit is very large, bright, glossy crimson; flesh very firm, sweet 
and juicy. It is very productive and continues a long time in bearing. Extra, 50 
cts per doz., $1.50 per 100, 

WILSON'S ALBANY.— A very prolific and profitable fruit. 25 cts. per doz., $1 per 
100. 



A WOKD FOR THE 

BLACKBERRY. 



"Well might the poet Thomson say, " The rolling year is full of Thee," 
and in another place "He spreads a common feast for all that live." — 
For no sooner has one delicious berry blossomed, ripened and gone, 
than another takes its place. And in its season oomesthe Blackberry, 
widely disseminated throughout our blessed country, a great luxury for 
man, and also food for the robin ; who in God's good providence has 
scattered the seeds of this valuable fruit broad cast throughout tlie land. 
"We can all have them close at hand by following the simple directions 
I give, which, as in strawberry culture is the result of my experience. 
If you hav a spare strip of ground in your garden, along an east and 
west fence, plant on the north side of it. Or, as next best, select the 
east side of a north and south fence. The ground should be drained ; 
if not drained, elevate the bed about six inches. Set posts in the 
ground, in a line with the fence, and three feet from it. Let the posts 



The Blackherry. 28 



be eight or ten foot apart, two feet in the ground, and two and a half 
from ground to top of post. Nail five-inch board lengthwise on top of 
the post, then nail slats from top of each post, across to the fence and 
fasten there. Set the roots, one in a place, five feet apart, two feet from 
the fence. Cover if possible the whole space between the posts and 
fence with rotten logs, or chips ; if with chips, one foot deep, leaving a 
space of a foot in diameter around each stalk. The stalk will send up 
one or two shoots. Let them stand until they have attained the heighth 
of eighteen inches. Select the most yigorous stalk and cut the other 
off near the ground. 

"Vfhen this remaining stalk is three feet high, pinch off the terminal 
or top bud. The stalk will then send out laterals. In the second year 
several shoots will make their appearance. Let these attain a heighth 
of eighteen inches, and again remove all shoots, but the most vigorous 
And when it attains the heighth of four feet, nip off the top bud, and 
the stalk will send out laterals. The b'jsh will assume the appearance 
of a small tree, the stalk being from three to five inches in circum- 
ference. 

By the third year the roots will become strong enough to support 
two new shoots; that will make their appearance, when the chip • or 
log covering is removed, so as to make two or three openings between 
the first plants set out. After the third year you will then have about 
four bushes for every five feet; let them not increase above that num- 
ber. If the third year is a propiteous one, there being plenty of rain 
in August and September: you will gather a crop of blackberries, that 
will pay for all your trouble, if the stalks would never produce another 
berry. 

For two or three weeks after the fruiting season is over, cut offal 
the old canes close to the ground. This is done most expeditiously, 
with a pair of shears, such as sheep growers use for trimming the hoofs 
of sheep — and although it is foreign to the subject, I will here say, you 
will find these shears very convenient for pruning the gmall branches 
of trees. 

Eeader, have you ever in childhood gathered wild blackberries? If 
you have you will remember that you gathered the most, the largest, 
and the best berries, where the bird had dropped the berry seed in a 
location best adapted to the production of the fruit. Perhaps on the 
north or east side of the forest, where the trees gave the bushes a par- 
tial shade. Or along the slopes of deep ravines, or in the fence corn- 
ers, whore the bush had for a part of the day, some larger bush or tree 
to shield it from the scorching sun-beams; or beside a stone heap, where 
the roots could find a steady moisture. And last and best of all loca- 
tions, jou found the richest, and the best, between some old decaying 
logs, especially if they were near some partial shade. But perhaps you 



2 If, The Blackherrj/. 



will remember, having seen here and there a bush standing out in the 
open field ; and that the berries gathered there were small tough, and 
bitter; more like a persimmon to the taste, than like a blackberry. I 
for one remember these things ; and this is why I have recommended 
planting where the bushes have a partial shade, and a covering of old 
logs or chips. I have now a row of Lawton Blackberries, one hundred 
and fifty feet in length. I planted them on the north side of a fence. 
They have given each year since the second from planting, nine years 
ago, in the favorable seasons an abundant yield. Three years ago, after 
rising them for supper every day for a family of four persons, during 
their season and after canning many, I sold berries to the amount of 
thirteen dollars from that narrow strip of ground, which for any other 
crop, would not have produced the value of three dollars. And it is no 
small luxury to have them on your table daily, fresh and dead ripe, for 
six or eight weeks for they are in bearing a long time. ^ Many people 
who undertake to raise blackberries, gather them befoie they are ripe, 
as soon as they turn black. Now there is as much difference between 
a blackberrj^ picked, as soon as the color is turned ; and a ripe one, as 
there is between a green and ripe peach. They grow from half to a 
third after the color is turned, and arc not ripe, until they will fall from 
the bush, as soon as touched; and some people who have blackberry 
bushes, hardly know what a ripe berry is. And you will often hear the 
remark, '"I do not like blackberries, they are so sour." Sour, because 
they are not ripe. 

Do not pay agents an extravagant price for blackberry roots. In 
this vicinity— Summit County, Ohio, — the Lawton can be obtained for 
a dollar a hundred. 

Below see description of different varieties. 

B. M.Watson, of the Old Colony Nurseries, Plymouth, Mass., rec- 
ommends the following kinds, with description of rare qualities &c.: 



BLACKBERRIES. 

"KITTANINNY.— Anew early blackberry, worthy of unqualified praise. It is hardy, 

vigerous, and enormously productive. The fruit is of unsurpassed flavor, ripening 

several weeks before the Lawton Extra. 
LAWTON OR NEW ROCHELLE.— Well-known fruit of great value. One of the best 

late sorts, enormously productive. 
LOVETT OR DORCHESTER.— V very black, handsome berry, of the highest flavor. 

Very sweet and delicious. 
LOW BU-SH- — This fine fruit, ripening as it dose before any of the other varietie8,8hould 

be in every garden. Excellent for Wine. 
LOW BUSH IMPROVED.— A fine variety of the above, fine, very sweet. 
WILSON.^A new and famous fruit, now extensively planted for fruit- It is no doubt 

one of the best blackberries in cultivatien, and should be in all gardens. The fruit 

is earlier than the Lawton, and of tho highest excellence. Extra." 



HOW TO RAISE A LARGE CROP 



OF 



STUAWBEERIES 




TALLMADGE, SUMMIT CO.', 0. 



MODE OF CULTURE AND DESCRIPTION OF VARIETIES 
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